Since we did the Dempster from Inuvik to Dawson City this summer (2006) I thought I'd write some notes about the trip for other cyclists. If you have additional notes, please add your comments to this page.

• Resources
  • The Milepost is essential. Copy or rip out the section about the Dempster and you'll know where every pullout and campground is.
  • Alys and Pete's book Alaska Bicycle Touring Guide is getting mighty old, but it's the only place you can find out where water is available. That's something that matters to a cyclist and not to most other travelers.
  • Journals from other riders who did the Dempster: Jeff Kruys (2006), Murray Snyder (2006), Mike Vermuelen (1996)
• Things you'll need
  • Mosquito headnet (or full body suit) and repellent. Mostly we liked the headnet instead of repellent.
  • Bear Cache/Cannister (or see our note on using garbage cans as a cache)
  • Eye protection - lots of dust and things flying.
  • Water capacity enough for the 100km section of no water between Eagle Plains and where the Ogilvie River leaves the highway.
  • Water filter or chemicals
  • Spare tire and tubes. We had no problems, but plenty of cyclists and motorists have had destroyed tires from the sharp shale sections.
• General notes
  • Don't forget that you can't get across the Mackenzie or Peel Rivers during freezeup or breakup. You'll need to know when the road is likely to open if you want to travel those stretches.
  • You can send half your food ahead to Eagle Plains - mark the box with your name and "please hold for cyclist". You can typically arrange this at the visitor center in either Dawson City or in Inuvik. There are a lot of kind motorists travelling this route.
  • Almost everybody travelling this road is actually a friend and a support vehicle. In case of bike trouble, water trouble, etc., you'll probably come out OK by asking for help.
  • The road was pretty fair quality dirt road when we went. It's way better than most dirt roads I've travelled, both in terms of grade and quality. However, some sections turn to horrendous mud in the rain, and of course cyclists hate the mud. You may want to leave your fenders at home.
  • You can camp at gravel pits, rest stops, etc., in addition to the campgrounds. In a number of places it's hard to camp on the swampy or permafrost areas off the highway except in these places.
  • Spend some time hiking at Tombstone if you can.
  • Eagle Plains Hotel had fair prices (only $10/night for camping - included the shower! - although there was a place for quarters you didn't have to use it.)
  • You can buy some food from the kitchen at Eagle Plains, but they don't have anything in their store. But you can probably get a loaf of bread, for example.
  • Engineer Creek Campground has unthinkable water. Get water just downstream at the Ogilvie River bridge instead and haul it to the campground.
  • Fort McPherson has most services, but Tsiigehtchic (Arctic Red River) has basically none.
  • Tires and bike: I used a mountain bike with Continental "Traffic" tires, and Nancy used a touring bike with Shwalbe Marathon XR tires. These worked great. I do recommend some tread and a wider tire for this route.
  • The 100km section between where the road leaves the Ogilvie River (northbound) to Eagle Plains has no good water. Plan to get water there or at Eagle Plains (southbound) for this section. A motorist might cache some water for you at a kilometer marker as well. Kilometers are marked on even kilometers and most of the markers are there.