Lucho with his son Lance - In training (View on flickr)

Lucho con Lance – en entrenamiento

Cuando bajamos de las montañas de Perú para la costa, nos quedamos en la legendaria Casa de Ciclistas en Trujillo, Perú. Lucho Ramirez empezó ofrecer su modesta casa para ciclistas viajeros ya en 1984, y él está a un paso de completar la marca de mil huéspedes. ¡Mil grupos de ciclistas firmaron su diario y se quedaron allá a lo largo de 25 años! ¡Un ciclista se quedó un año! Muchos se quedaron por bien más tiempo del que esperaban, frecuentemente por una semana o más. Es un encanto hojear las páginas del diario y ver ciclistas famosos que nosotros conocemos u oímos decir que pasaron por aquí. Nuestros amigos Dick y Els, de Holanda, firmaron el libro cerca de 5 años atrás. Nuestro amigo Andrew lo firmó hay solamente un mes y poco. Nuestros amigos Pat y Cat también pasaron por aquí cerca de 3 años atrás.

Muchos de ustedes nos preguntaron si estábamos intentando quebrar alguno récord o cosa parecida, y la respuesta es no, vamos realmente bien despacio, y muchas y muchas personas fueron más lejos. Aunque ni todos los ciclistas que pararon en la casa de Lucho estuviesen haciendo viajes grandes como nuestra, muchos estaban haciendo muy mayores. Un compañero, Hans Stuecke, ¡ha pedaleado por 46 años!  read more here... lee mas aquí... »

Frank Lewis (View on flickr)

Dad - Abbott Fay at park near Grand Junction (View on flickr)

Papá – Abbot Fay, en un parque cerca de Grand Junction

Acabamos de llegar a Perú venidos de una estorbada viaje a Estados Unidos. Fue excelente y exhaustiva. Primero, tuvimos que enfrentar 10 horas de autobús para la cuesta de la Cajamarca, entonces más 8 horas de autobús de Trujillo a la capital de Perú, Lima. Entonces volamos por mucho tiempo hacia Boston, y llegamos a tiempo para el evento principal que apretaba nuestro viaje: el cumpleaños de 80 años del padre de Nancy, Frank Lewis. Fuimos para la cabaña del hermano de Nancy, Dan, en New Hampshire y vivimos una conmemoración deliciosa.

Entonces volamos hacia Denver para ver los hijos de Randy, Elisheba y Mark, y dirigimos hasta Grand Junction, Colorado, para ver los padres de Randy. Caminamos con ellos a vemos su nuevo lar en el retiro de edad Atrium, en Grand Junction – ellos tienen una linda cabaña, completa, incluso con más espacio del que tenían antes, garaje, y el confort de hacer las comidas en el propio retiro. Instalaciones muy buenas.

Entonces dirigimos de vuelta a Denver y tuvimos un encuentro con amigos que fue un encanto absoluto. Varios amigos vinieron a vernos, incluso un grupo de ciclistas viajeros que no conocíamos, Nick y Dave, dos impresionantes jóvenes que están para partir de Denver en el camino de Panamá. ¡Gracias a todos qué vinieron y también a los qué no pudieron venir por su amistad!  read more here... lee mas aquí... »

Several of you bike touring people have asked us about bike maintenance and the problems we've had, so we decided to put together a log.

July 2006: Cassiar Highway. Broken spoke and wobbly wheel on Randy's drive side of rear wheel. We broke the Hyper-Cracker tool (that takes the cassette off) in a hailstorm trying to use it. Took us 300 miles to get to a place with a tool to take it off, but we made it.

September 2006: New tires in Victoria, BC.

October 2006: California: Spoke nipple broke through rim on Randy's rear wheel. Got a new wheel built, hoping for the best.

January 2007: New bottom bracket for Randy's bike. New drive train, cables, housing, tires (Continental TravelContact), touring handlebars, many other things before starting out. We also had to buy a replacement set of Old Man Mountain racks for Randy's bike because the 5000 miles of the trip so far had created big abrasions in the (aluminum) racks. Old Man Mountain gave us the new racks at cost.

February 2007: Randy's new rear wheel (from California) failed in Tucson. It was a fancy downhill rim, too. We'll never use another Mavic rim of any type for bike touring.

April 2007: Randy gave up on the fancy Brooks saddle (never did get comfortable) and got a new one, Terry touring saddle that seems to be OK.

May 2007: New chains and cassettes on Oaxaca, Mexico.

January 2008: New chains in Guatemala.

January 2008: Nancy's seatpost clamp failed in Honduras.  read more here... lee mas aquí... »

Loading the potato truck that will take us to Celendín (View on flickr)

OK, I must confess we took a ride in a truck full of freshly-picked potatoes. The 100-mile ride took 10 hours through some very high mountains of northern Peru and down though hot valleys and back up to the heavens.

We have decided (or is it that I have decided?) that occasionally it does make sense to take alternative transportation through some areas which seem too difficult for biking with our load. The route we have taken through northern Peru has taken us through very beautiful, amazing landscapes. And amazing elevation climbs, descents and ascents. In one area from Leymebamba to Celendin, after reading another cyclist's blog through this area, I was intimidated and decided I would rather take a bus then climb up to 3600 meters (12,000 feet), descend to 900 meters (3000 feet) and then climb back up to 3100 meters on a dirt road, along cliffs that drop thousands of feet with only a slice of road carved on the face of the mountain.  read more here... lee mas aquí... »

Donkeys everywhere (View on flickr)

Peru has some of the biggest mountains and deepest valleys we have encountered so far. We find it very interesting to ride the high mountains of Peru because the sierras are inhabited by indigenous people who live in the traditional ways they have maintained for centuries. Not much has changed in hundreds of years. In some areas we have been riding through there is no electricity, no running water, no paved road, lots of sheep, cows, chickens, donkeys which carry cargoes of milk, wood, heavy loads of vegetables like potatoes, corn and cabbage. The people themselves carry huge loads on their backs. The women wear the same traditional clothes they have for ages including special hats which identify the area they come from. Around Cajamarca the women wear short skirts with ballooning petticoats, tall, wide-brimmed hand-woven hats made of fine strands of straw. They all have wraps and ponchos to either keep warm or carry a load. They're even shorter than me. From the distance they sometimes remind me of the profile of Halloween witch The women in Northern Peru can be seen herding donkeys loaded with metal containers of milk, babies on their backs and walking along a high mountain road while spinning wool on a stick, preparing the wool for knitting or weaving. The women always have busy hands. Always. Where we are right now the women knit afghans of multiple colors, ponchos, and sweaters. If they don't have a baby on their backs they're carrying a load of firewood, twigs, or huge bunches of herbs and greens.  read more here... lee mas aquí... »

Mudholes everywhere, climbing up from Namballe to San Ignacio (View on flickr)

They master riding early in this part of Peru (View on flickr)

Saludos a todos nuestros amigos que hablan el castellano! Cruzamos la frontera del Ecuador al Perú el sábado y quisimos mandar una nota. Estamos bién y continuando al sur.

Teníamos muchas experiencias buenas en Ecuador, incluso un viaje a las Islas Galápagos y mas de 1200 kilómetros de viaje por bicicleta. Estaba bién duro todo. Las cuestas son verdaderas cuestas, muy pendientes, y tuvimos varios dias de camino de tierra. Pero, como siempre, serán los días mas duros que vamos a recordar más, con toda esa belleza. Las vistas fueron astombrosas y esperamos que nuestras fotos muestren bién lo que veíamos pasando por estas montañas.

Entramos al Ecuador desde Colombia en Tulcán y de pronto experimentamos un nivel mucho mas bajo de tensión sobre la seguridad. Aunque Colombia está seguro y no tuvimos ningún problema allí, siempre nos dábamos cuenta de su historia y la situación actual. (Esperamos que ustedes oyeron las noticias que 15 de los rehenes mas importantes de las FARC ya están libres!) Ecuador estaba tranquilo y seguro en casi todas partes. Al menos de Quito (una ciudad grande, con los problemas de grandes ciudades) no pensamos ni poquito en asuntos de seguridad - todo fue tranquilo.

Viajando hacia Quito (y mas tarde saliendo de Quito) la Panamericana tenía demasiado tráfico y se hizo molestante.  read more here... lee mas aquí... »

Loading the bikes into the boat for the crossing of the Rio Marañon (View on flickr)

Rice paddies in northern Peru (View on flickr)

From San Ignacio we descended rapidly into a completely different kind of country - rice paddies everywhere. Neither of us had ever seen the cultivation of rice before, so we were amazed to see the effort required to work with the plants at the various parts of their life cycle. It was beautiful, too, but like we had left the high mountains and landed in a south-east Asian area!

After about 50 kilometers of dirt (formerly paved, but long since decayed) we hit beautiful new pavement for the first time in days. And it was downhill, too. But we soon turned off for a shortcut that we read about in Peter Berechree's incredible blog of his Andes-by-bike adventure. We took a dirt-road turnoff to the town of Bellavista and found our way to the banks of the Rio Marañon, a major river headed to the Amazon. Hoping that we'd gotten to the right place, we waved and yelled to a fellow cleaning his boat on the other side, he eventually came for us. We loaded the bikes up a 2x4 ramp and crossed over in a jiffy, then road a few miles to catch the highway again. We got a pleasant little diversion from the highway and probably eliminated 50 kilometers from our route.  read more here... lee mas aquí... »

Maria from Pungalá (View on flickr)

Links:

• All our Ecuador stories in order
• All our Ecuador pictures
• Galapagos pictures
• Route notes and details, including maps and elevation profiles

Ecuador turned out to be a very pleasant, tranquil country. With the exception of Quito, which has problems like any other large city, we felt completely comfortable and safe everywhere in the country. In fact, we felt that Ecuador was as safe as our previous most-comfortable country, Nicaragua. (Nicaragua would have to exclude its capital, Managua, as well, but we didn't go there.)

Ecuador is incredibly well-organized for tourism and gringos. There are tours and language schools and even a fair number of people who speak some English. They use the US dollar for currency. There is a whole section of Quito (Gringolandia) devoted to nice restaurants and stores of every type catering to gringos. We were able to get some nice sports equipment (warm clothes and such) that you would not have found in most places we have been.  read more here... lee mas aquí... »