Our ride around the mud from Cuba, NM to Grants took us through a very remote and terribly interesting part of the country - the Navajo Reservation. The part we went through is called the "checkerboard" because it's not all reservation - there's different ownership every mile or so, but much of it is reservation and most is Navajo.

In Pueblo Pintado we asked permission to camp next to the trailer of Dennis and Brenda Buckman, who own the little grocery store there. (In the 120 miles between Cuba and Grants there are 2 stores, no towns, no other services.) Well, it rained then, and they ended up inviting us in for dinner and having us sleep inside. What wonderful people. But the best part was that Dennis told us story after story about the reservation. Of course it was from the point of view of a white man, but he's lived on the "rez" for years and years, and we learned a lot.

Dennis says Navajos almost never start their own business because their since of family obligation insists that they always share everything with their extended family, and so assets could never be concentrated into a business.

The younger children are frightened of Dennis and Brenda at first, but become accustomed. The reservation is a *very* different place.  read more here... lee mas aquí... »

Since Del Norte, Colorado, we've been riding with Wim and Tiny, an incredible Dutch couple from Delft, Holland (where the blue pottery is made). They're so strong and so experienced and such a pleasure to ride with.

Wim and Tiny have cycled and hiked all over the world - the list goes on and on: Gambia and Zimbabwe and Turkey, Nepal, India, England, China. And now the Great Divide. It's such a pleasure to hear their stories about all those exotic places.

Wim and Tiny started the Great Divide at the Canadian border and plan to finish their trip in Antelope Wells, NM at the Mexican border, probably next Tuesday. We hope to be with them to celebrate their success (and the pleasure of their company).

Hello from Silver City, NM, in the far south of the state. We've covered a lot of territory!

Since the last time I posted, we've had two occasions to do what we call a "dry camp". That's where you carry all your water for the day, all the water you need to camp at night, and the water you need for the next day.

The first time we did this was leaving Abiquiu and going to Cuba - We had a really steep incline to climb on a fairly rough road. And we each carried 9-10 liters of water (2 to 2.5 gallons of water). that's 16-20 pounds of additional water for the ride, on a big uphill! We were successful, but actually had carried too much water and were pouring it out the next day.

The most recent time was in the Gila National Forest, and we each carried 7-8 liters of water, and that was adequate (this time - it's hard to guess how hot the day will be!)

In a dry camp, we don't waste any water for washing if we can help it, and don't throw out any water from cooking. And after doing a dry camp, it's a mighty wonderful thing to make it to running water (or some other water source) the next day!

Of three major sections on the Northern New Mexico Great Divide Trail, we have only been able to do one. It has been raining here every afternoon. The mud is so thick we could not get our bikes through it if we had to. We have had to take alternate routes on pavement.

In one place when we did ride on some adobe mud, our tires picked up big globs of mud. The wheels refused to go around, the mud jammed between the brakes and the forks, creating one heck of an adobe mess.

We hope we can do the next off road section from Grants to Pie-town. We will see tomorrow.

Of the three of us, Ron is the one who seems to have the knack for negotiating. (It must be all those years in business) We send him into places to get the best deals which is usually when we are looking for a campsite or a hotel. For those who know Ron, he has a quiet unique wit yet there is always a twinkle in his eye. He is definitely at his best when negotiating a business deal. I would like to share with you some classic examples of his these talents.

In Abiquiu, New Mexico while looking for a campsite, we sent him into the office where he reportedly said: "My buddies have a spot already picked out by the river but I thought I would check in with you first.”

In Chama the female host of the campsite commented on how bad his bandaged road rash must be. He replied to with an impish smile "This is nothing you should see me with my clothes off."

In Horca, they quoted a price of $65.00 for the night. Ron replied, “I guess that's ok but we will not be able to afford to eat tonight” It worked; we ended up spending $50.00 for a room.

He met his match at the Sands Hotel in Grants, NM. He said the hotel owner “Wow, $35.00 dollars is a lot for a room. The place down the street has a room for $19.95. Which the owner replied "Go on down there and tell him I sent you, I have a deal with that guy. I send him all the first rate cheapskates that come here wanting a better deal." Yes you guessed it, we spent the $35.00 for a softbed and a warm shower.

:-)

After descending from Platoro, Colorado, the Great Divide route goes over La Manga Pass and then takes off into the New Mexico boonies toward El Rito and then Abiquiu. We had hoped to go that way, but feared that the afternoon rains we've had every day would make it impossible.

Well, we tried to go that way today, but got a mile or so down the route and talked to a rancher who had turned around due to the incredible slick and difficult adobe mud he ran into. He thrilled us with his description of the territory - he talked like something out of an old movie, describing the places and how awful they are. But we decided that discretion is the better part of valor and turned around.

We've experienced adobe in the bicycles before. What happens is it gets all caked around your tires, then fills in the spot where your brakes are, then your wheels won't go around any more. You have to poke it all out with a stick to even push your bike again. Then you get more. It just wouldn't work. So we took the alternate route to Chama, NM, and will ride to Abiquiu on the highway tomorrow.

By the way, Ron's road rash is healing nicely, and he's riding strong. He still has no feeling in the two little fingers of his left hand, so hopefully that will come back.

The following was phoned in by Randy to Nancy (she may have took some liberties to embellish the story as told by Randy)

This is a good story. Sorry Jeff. :-)

Alex in Del Norte gave us permission to stay on a property at the foot of Indiana Pass. It was a nice campground, tepee included. We had no neighbors until late that night when a father and his young son joined us. The child was about seven or eight and was one of the most hyperactive kids you would ever want to meet. The kind of kid that gets into anything and everything. We wondered if the young child was a candidate for Ritalin, a good drug for hyper kids needing to settle down for a while.

In the morning Jeff went in search for an outhouse which is always a wonderful thing to locate when the need arises. Well, Jeff goes sits down when all of a sudden he hears a rattle at the door and a click. He now finds himself in a small crisis he has never faced. Darn it! The impish boy has locked Jeff in the outhouse. Yes, there was a lock on the outside and now he is locked in. Yikes! He yells out in a very stern deep voice “Unlock this door NOW!” Which, the kid obeyed. He opened the door, peered in and then locked the door again with Jeff inside, just sitting there fuming.

This was not the way Jeff wanted to start the day. No relief for the needy.

So when Jeff eventually escaped from this awkward jail feeling somewhat abused and confused, he got on his bike and stormed away, away from this unruly child who strikes fear into grown men’s hearts.  read more here... lee mas aquí... »

The following was phoned in by Randy to Nancy (who may have taken some liberties to embellish the adventure as told by Randy)

Coming down from Summitville and Indiana Pass we got our first good taste of rain.

Summitville is known for its designation as an EPA Superfund disaster. The late 1980's mining activity leached cyanide into the river and killed the river. (For more information see below...)

The rain forced us to seek shelter, which was offered by an old cabin that had seen better days. What was left of the roof leaked like a sieve so Jeff and Ron got out their tarps and put them up inside, which gave us true refuge from the rain. The Dutch couple, Wim Van Hoorn and Tiny Van Der Werff, soon caught up with us and joined us in trying to stay dry and warm. We got the stove out and cooked up some hot chocolate and shared the rest of the afternoon. A wonderful warming touring experience.

[More reading about Summitville superfund site]

This 1,400-acre site is located in Rio Grande County, approximately 18 miles southwest of Del Norte. The mine site is in the San Juan Mountains at an elevation of 11,500 feet, surrounded by the Rio Grande National Forest. The Alamosa River and its tributaries flow from the site through forest and agricultural land in Rio Grande and Conejos Counties and past the San Luis Valley towns of Capulin and La Jara. The Terrace Reservoir, used for irrigation, is on the Alamosa River 18 miles downstream from the site.  read more here... lee mas aquí... »